I finally decided to tackle installing the 2go-keyless push-button start system I picked up last fall. This is a pretty straight forward modification. Easiest way to tackle this, for me, was to go in from underneath. With the underbody aluminum out of the way there is some decent working room to make the necessary wiring changes, and install the controller box.  The old ignition was removed and the ignition wires were connected to the control box harnesses (only 4 wires to join up).  The start switch plugs right into the control box. A programming switch is installed under the dash ‘just in case’ the key fob fails and I have to manually start it. With everything in place I covered the control box in Thermotec heat shield and stuck it up inside the tunnel with some heavy-duty 3m adhesive tape. Harnesses were then connected, switches plugged-in, and ground established.  The only real trouble I had was once everything was tested and buttoned up, the system stopped working. After checking all my wiring, re-doing the ground connection, etc., I realized it was due to a faulty (or improperly programmed) fob. During my previous tests before cleaning everything up I had used the ‘backup’ fob. At least that one works.

The system itself is nice. The start button lights up when the car is running and flashes every second when it is ‘armed’ when the car is off. The keychain fob can be put into a manual or automatic mode. Manual requires you to press the button on the fob while starting, automatic is completely passive – just need to have it on you when starting the car. The range for the fob detection is about 10′. The start button itself can be lightly pressed to turn on accessories. Pressing and holding starts the car. Definitely nicer looking than the standard key ignition.

Amazing what a few pieces of carbon fiber and a new grille can do to change the stance and ‘feel’. I couldn’t decide what pics to be selective about and upload, so I’ll just put them all up.

Installed the carbon fiber rocker extensions to complete version 2 of the Stealth GTM.  These are a straight-forward install – nothing worth noting really. I thought it would be tough getting into the car with these sticking out, but it doesn’t change the degree of entry/exit difficulty at all. Greatest benefit of these extensions, other than appearance, is that they will keep debris from hitting the side of the car.

With the new grille installed and nose aluminum back in I was able to install the FFR carbon fiber splitter. The nose of the car is not symmetrical at all (or maybe the splitter isn’t?) so getting the splitter to line-up from side to side is pretty much impossible.  If you get the ends lined up at the same spot on each side of the hood the front of the splitter will be asymmetrical as it curves across the front of the car. Flip-side is if you center the splitter to the center of the nose the sides/ends will be slightly off kilter, but at least the front portion is right on. Seeing as you cannot see both sides at once, I opted to have it look spot-on from the front and have the ends slightly off. In the end the difference side to side is only noticeable if you know to look for it (talking a quarter inch of variance from side to side where the splitter ends).

I mounted the splitter with some longer 1/8″ rivets, sandwiched with stainless washers (ie: rivet – washer – splitter+body – washer – end of rivet). The idea is that if the splitter takes an impact it will shear off without damaging the nose of the car (too much), as the washers will shear the rivets, rather than the nose fiberglass itself.

The splitter, combined with the new grille, really changes the look of the front of the car, and makes it look more polished and aggressive (imo).

I let the 8115 cure overnight and removed the braces and clamps upon waking. Good to go. Re-riveted the nose aluminum back in to complete the task.

I’ve been getting annoyed with the mesh grille on the car as it is warping and getting chipped from road debris, so I contacted Shane (VRaptor Speed Works) to cut up a new grille for me. I had it powder coated after assembling it and started installing it today.

First, I had to take the nose aluminum out so I could pull off the old mesh grille – not too tough of a task. Then I had to disconnect my front camera and mount it forward an inch or so since the new grill’s middle support strake interferes with its old location. Finally I got the grille held and braced in place with some random lumber and adhered it into place with the old trusty 3M 8115 panel bonding adhesive.  Tomorrow I can pull the supports out and hopefully it will all stay in place.

I recently got around to working on the rear suspension a bit – this included tweaking the ride height further, and installing FFR’s rear shock mount support braces to prevent cracking issues some had with the shock mount brackets.

Ride height is now set at 4.5″ on the drivers side, a hair under that on the pass side. I want to get both sides to 4.75 or 5″, but the pass side coilover is at its max adjustment (spring needs to be compressed to get more turns out of the spring perch collar). As a result I will probably be upgrading the rear springs to 800# springs to get a few more turns out of the pass side. The same coilover ‘height’ with the stiffer springs should allow the rear to sit a bit higher…we’ll see.

The FFR shock mount brace is a straightforward install. Unbolt the shock, unbolt the rear shock mount bolt, slip on the brace, rebolt it up.